Plumbing:

Updated:4/12/06
Printer Version


Outside Shower Unit was manufactured by "Heater Craft" Of Rathdrum Id, 208-687-4400. If you need any replacement parts please contact them directly.

Standard Manual Toilets, I have also replaced the manual head unit with one of the new "Designer series" Jabsco electric heads 3700 SCR . Works very well, is quiet, took about 4 hours to install, and was less than $700.00. Much better than putting out $2000 for the Vacuflush aftermarket installation. I also replaced the fresh water pump with a Raritan unit that has a built in pressure tank. Much better water flow and if you use small enough amounts of water the pump doesn't continually run. West Marine P/N 269029, $329.00. Rick Ericson rick@mrreuter.com 10/00

VacuFlush 806 toilets, I am located in New York and have someone who was recommended by Sealand who is going to come out and attempt the installation. Of course at this time of the year they have a backlog of work. I did find out some interesting info that I could share. You may already know this but anyway. The plumbing connectors on the Maxum boats are made by Flair-it. They are on the internet at http://www.flairit.com The distributor for parts is at http://www.jamestowndistributors.com

I'll let you know how I make out on this. BMazza@concentrex.com 4/00

If you have a vacuflush toilet you most likely have a model # 806.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4100 SCB toilet issue, Hose Kinked:

Hi Jim: I had to remove the bathroom vanity lower panel to get to the toilet hose. It's screwed from the inside so I forced the screws loose, cut the sealing putty with a knife, and exposed the 1 1/2 hose. Disconnected hose from the vacuum pump and pulled it a few feet to allow exposure of the kinked section. First removed the toilet as you will see in photos. How this kink occurred is a mystery to me at the moment. The hose has set and the kink is permanently creased in the hose. I cut out the damaged section and spliced it in under the vanity. If this hose requires any future service I can reach/service it from under the bathroom vanity.

I used a mirror to take some of these photo's, since the area of trouble was within the hull and could not see directly. Section of hose cut out is in the last few shots atop the removed toilet.

Forward my findings to any other 4100 scb owners.
thanks for your website help, jmoore moore4255@verizon.net

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drain Holes, On the bridge of our 4600 SCB I drilled out two drain holds in the forward bottom of the built in holder on the bottom right of the pilots seat. F. Hearold. 1/00

Holding tank. Care to spend $3000.00 and have your boat smell like the inside of your holding tank? I hope not. $3000.00 is the cost of having your holding tank replaced. A Kluge of Michigan the owner of a 4100 SCB found out, (not personally) that a strong vacuum systems used to empty a holding tank can also collapse the vent tube to the holding tank then leading to the collapse of the holding tank itself. It seems to me that if you let the level of the tank rise enough to plug the vent tube this may have the same effect. It is very similar to sucking the air out of a plastic pop bottle but a bit more expensive. This being the case and if extra hands are available, you might consider one dedicating one to watching the level of the tank during the pump out. Just an idea. 7/00 Roger a 4100 SCA Owner writes, I've had some problems with the holding tank. When Maxum installed the hose fitting to the rear side of the tank, they cross threaded the fitting and the sewage has been dripping into the bilge. Repaired that, but can't seem to get the stink out of the aft cabin. Our marina installed a new pump out which has more suction than the old one. I found out this spring that the last pump out last fall, collapsed the tank far enough to force the sender unit for the "tank full light" to hit the side of the tank and break off the float. That, of course, meant that there was a direct vent from the tank to the aft cabin. Since replacing the sender, I caution the person doing the pump out to only open the valve half way. This winter I will have to devise some method of strengthening the top of the tank to keep it from collapsing. 9/00

Holding tank odors. We've had them, they are an on going maintenance item. Here is what we found, and what we did to combat them. We found multiple sources which have compounded the odor problem, here they are. When our forward Air Conditioner drained inside the forward bilge and it created stagnant water, about 30 gallons of it. We had 7" of water trapped under the forward area of our 4600 SCB (its the same on the 4100 SCB & 4100 SCA). We attacked the problem by pumping the water out of where it was trapped and by connecting the air conditioners drain into the forward sump pump and then the air conditioners condensate water automatically pumps overboard. Your boats holding tank has a carbon filter on the vent of the tank, it looses its effectiveness and must be replaced yearly, so Sealand says, everythree is most likely fine unless you overfill the holding tank. We use Headzyme from West Marine to control the odor inside of the tank. We've tried K.O. but prefer Headzyme. We have had all of the piping inspected and the side wall of all the piping in our boat is stamped "sanitary grade" piping, I though this was enough but keep reading, it's not. We have been advised to replace our holding pump out tube. It was suggested to us to have a new holding tank pump out tube installed from the top of the holding tank down. This will allow us to pump out all but 1/2" of the holding tank's waste. As it is now the pump out of the tank stops as the top of the side mounted tube picks up air, leaving about 3" of waste in the tank at all times. We've also found a dripping water connection behind and under the bathroom sink. And finally because we feel that the holding tank area must be vented. We have installed a 3" tube to the pump room and have it connected to a 3" mini fan which operates from the bathroom fan switch, it also operates from solar power. billegates@aol.com 8/00

And after all that, my boat still smelled like sh_t. I don't like saying it, but you could smell it in the bilge and when you opened the pump room or bilge access hatches. I cleaned, I sprayed, I vented, I added ozone, I changed holding tank vent filters, I added chemicals. I ignored it when I couldn't find or fix it. Then John, a trained Sealand guy from Winter Harbor looked at it, after I explained what I did. He explained to me that everything I did was great but, it would do no good until I removed all the "Blue Strip" Sealand waste hose and replace it with Sealand "Red Strip" hose. Sealand Red Strip hose came out about 2 years ago in 1998-9. The Blue Strip hose is only rated for 2-3 years of service. After that it becomes permeated with the sewage smell and must be removed. He also suggested a dip tube be installed, in place of the side pickup. In our boat a 4600 SCB this was impracticable because of limited top clearance. A dip tube goes into the tank from the top, it connects to the waste pump out connection on the deck. The idea is any waste not picked up will slip slide back down the pipe into the tank and not sit in the hose. Here's a question to Maxum, On my 4600 my waste tank is on the Port, why did you put my pump out on the Starboard? That 15+ feet of extra stinky hose! AND you designed the tank so the waste's incoming fitting is in the far inside rear of the tank, impossible to get to after installation without removing the tank.
Well, this is another case of BOAT, Break Out Another Thousand.
That's just about what it will cost you, but it is well worth it. billegates@aol.com 8/01

New Solar & 12vdc turbo fan powered vent from pump room. (rear)

David O Calkins, Writes this about VacuFlush and Holding Tank Odors. I have found the Vacuflush folks very helpful and knowledgeable about the odor sources on our 4600s. Please see the attached. (The attached was the super tech installation chapter from Sealand) Dave says he will send photos when he is done, the super tech installation chapter is BIG, if you want it contact Bill Friedman at billf@sealandtechnology.com he will E-mail it to you. I image Sealand's website has it available to download also. dcalkins@howmet.com 9/00

Would you like "Clean Air" aboard, The Will's of Plano TX have found a solution that works for them. They installed a "Sharper Image" Ionic Breeze Mini Air Purifier # SI626YYY in the kitchen, about $50. They found it removes and odors that naturally form in keeping a boat closed up. Another alternative would be to remove the humidity by placing your AC unit in HU mode, see your Marine Air owners manual. The combination of both would be ideal along with the above odor prevention tips would be ideal. 2/00

--------------------------------------------------------

Ivan rips into his 4100 SCB, again!
Just whats under there, and how can I get to it?


I assume you are cruising the Great Lakes, and won't be sending the monthly e-mails, so I posted this in the forum just in case, I couldn't add pictures, so here they are...


For the last 10 months we thought we had something wrong with our holding tank system... A "smelly moment" after each flush and the same when the boat was underway after a period of standing still.

We tried every possible chemical and resorted to limited use and frequent pump outs, replacement of vent filters etc.

On a routine inspection of the pump room I noticed the vent tube fitting (on the aft Portside of the holding tank, as far away from the pump room removable panel as possible)looked like it was either rusting or had build up of some sort.

Using a measuring tape, I figured out the spot was under the galley sink (4100 SCB), so I emptied the cabinets, the drawers and unscrewed the middle cabinet wall (just enough to be able to slide it out of the way) and used a jig saw to cut out a 10" square hole, 4" below that I used a rotozip to cut out another square of 1" fiberglass/foam sandwich.

What I saw, explained all the problems...

The 1 1/2 inch pipe (the one that feeds the holding tank) was completely loose and looked like it had never been screwed into the socket!

Apparently (due to the fact the area had no access panel)when they put it together they just caulked it and placed it on the socket without screwing it in!

Apparently the design was to connect these hoses before installing the holding tank in the pump room, but the tank won't fit through the opening unless they remove the hose!

My guess is that if you have the smell problem and your under sink cabinet doesn't have a hatch of some sort on the floor, you have the same problem we had.

Fixing it was easy, I removed the hose from the L adaptor, I had to remove the vent adaptor to make room and turned the L adaptor about 12 turns! to get a tight seal, then re attached the hose and vent and EUREKA! no more smell, A good wash of the pump room and bilge area with a garden hose and some chemicals is highly recommended. Total cost $1.00 (Teflon tape)

Above: As you can see the divide wall on the cabinet needs to be moved out of the way lots of small screws including the spice pocket, never mind my "crazy plumbing" (I had to do with what I had when we where in Mexico when I added the drains from the washer/dryer)

The "dusting" is from the jigsaw, this is the way I found the connection, as you can see the L connector was completely off the socket.

Another close view of the problem...

Problem solved! The wood I added to the sides are so we can close this new hatch.
I guess Maxum should know about this... Don't you?

Ivan Ivan@leasemaster.com

--------------------------------------------------------------
4100 SCB Waste Tank 1 1/2" Hose Fitting Repaired

I read your experience letter on the Maxumowner.org website and was surprised to read you have experienced the same problem I recently found on our 1999 4100 SCB; re: a loose product- in fitting (1 1/2 inch hose to elbow fitting) into the holding tank top.

I recently encountered a clogged toilet event and proceeded to determine the cause. After confirming the vacuum pump was working fine, holding tank only 1/4 full, and water ok; I removed toilet from base, snaked a coaxial wire as far as possible, only to hit a impasse about 2 feet from toilet seal flange.

Snaked from below about 4-5 feet and again hit the same impasse. I can't see behind the water tank and can't see from above either, but believe there might be an elbow under the vanity, but can not determine access to inspect.

After removing the majority of clogged fluids and product, I reconnected all lines and the vacuum system evacuated the drain line and remaining product. All has been working ok so far. We also do not smell any odor from the pump/holding tank compartment below deck, but tank is not more than 1/4 to 1/2 full.

While inspecting the holding tank toilet return line (aft port top side of holding tank) , I noticed the fitting was loose and could be moved up and down with a prodding pole. I managed to reach the fitting area ( it is very difficult to reach as you already know) with my boat telescoping brush handle.

Questions:1) Is there an elbow in the toilet drain line (1 1/2 inch hose) midway between the toilet and the vacuum pump?

There SHOULD be no 90 degree fitting here, I suspect that the waste hose has "kinked" and needs to be replaced, and perhaps routed with a bit more T L C that was used during the original install.

2) If I open the panel below the bathroom vanity ( cut an opening or force the panel seal open), is there access to the drain line and fitting?

Unknown, did you remove the cone shaped seat for the toilet, that should give you room to work, be sure not to over tighten the screws when putting it back, you will crack the cone and cause a vacuums leak, I did once. Use a mirror to see the hose under the bathroom floor.
.
3) Before I cut a hole in the floor below the kitchen/galley sink, as Ivan has stated, is there an alternative solution?
Ivan?

Boat is a beautiful vessel and we are looking forward to many hours of enjoyment once we have worked out these little issues!

John Moore
Maxum 4100 SCB owner since December 29, 2005.

Hi Jim and Ivan.

Completed the repair of dis-engaged holding tank feed line this week. All went well, thanks to the preliminary info from Ivan and Maxumowners.org email hot line. I was able to measure the exact location of feed fitting over the holding tank, so cut an approximate 10 inch sq opening just under the left hand galley sink (photo's attached). Still a mystery why we did not smell odor, but believe it is because we did not use toilet often enough yet, and ventilation? Pictures are all before repair in "condition as found". Note removed flooring/fiberglass pieces in pictures to better understand what one will be cutting through.

jmoore


--------------------------------------------------------------

D Hook has had to remove trapped fiberglass particles in his bilge pump float switches. "There were so many that they would not allow the float to reset, burning out one pump. I found a great eisen glass cleaner called "PLEXUS" easy to use with great results. Anyone having refrigerator door latch problems?" Yes, we reset the door to improve the seal and no more dripping or frost around the seals.

Water Pump too Small: P Gademer owner of a 3700 SCR, says (along with a few others) that the fresh water pump is too small, "I replaced it with one of the belt driven PAR, mounted on top of the water heater." I have heard this from other owners also and I also have a pump that is cycling hot to cold when in the shower and when the kitchen sink is on the aerator cycles on and then off.

Water Pumping Systems: J Clausen the owner of a 4600 SCB says, I called FloJet and also Shurflow for some answers. They suggest, turn on all the water faucets in the boat and let them run for a minute, then start to turn them off beginning at the closest ones to the one furthest away. This should clear any air bubbles out of the system. Next disconnect the shore side water supply and turn off the boats water pump. Turn on a faucet and remove the pressure from the water system then verify with a tire gauge that the accumulator tank has a 20 psi charge in it. Next if that still doesn’t help, install a one gallon accumulator tank. It can be anyone’s West has one for about $70. with a mounting kit. Lowes has the same size tank with no mounting kit for $30. Install it on the outlet side of the water system clear any air from the piping. You will need to go to a Home Depot or the like and pick up misc. fittings for 1/2‘ CTS pipe. While there pick up a 1/2" CTS pipe freeze repair kit for about $7. Incase a pipe ruptures or kinks you can repair it at once with this. You will be hard pressed to find this item offshore. I looked at replacing the original pump with the Flojet model 2840-100, Just under $300.00. It uses the same 4325-143 pump that is on most of our boats. I’ll try my own advice on this one and report back with the results. Well, I put in the new one gallon accumulator tank, no real difference. I picked up a water pressure gauge to attach to the hot water heater drain so that I could see what was going on. 34 to 42.5 PSI sounds good but it sure doesn't work for a shower. I'm not done yet. I have been at it again, I have removed 3 Items to improve the water systems on the boats.

1- On the Grohe shower hand piece, break the connection at the tailstock, you will see a plastic piece inserted into the tailstock, it is a filter pressure reducer, remove them. 2- On the sink, pull out the Moen wand, tape the flexible hose to the assembly so it won't slide back down into the base. If it does your in for a much longer job trying to fish out the hose and nut assembly. Remove the insert in the tailstock of the sprayer. It's gray and it is a backflow preventor set to 15 psi. Just in case you drop the wand into the toilet? This should help, also adding a 1 gallon accumulator tank is also a good idea. This brings the systems from annoying to acceptable. JC

4600 Pump Room

The small accumulator tank is shown disconnected in front of pump. The switch on top right of the holding tank is to turn on the macerator pump. The top two spring loaded switches on the bridge which were originally used for the macerator were bypassed. I figure if you have to open the sea cock and you have to monitor the level of the tank, why not control the pump down there also. Please note that this is probably an ABYC violation.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hot Water Heater
Pressure Relief Valve

Does anyone know the Brand and model # and how many gallons the hot water tank is on a 4100 scb I am away from the boat but need to order a TPR valve(temp.,press. safety valve) so when I get home I can install and go boating Thanks David Beyer

Dave, You have an Atwood (Rockford IL)
Model # EHM11-SM 10.5 GAL 39.7 LTR Water Heater

Max working pressure 150psi, on the 4600- 4100 and 3700's
I believe the thread is half inch but here is a picture in case it helps.
Ivan, 4100 SCB Master Mariner

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stuck Macerator Pump, Repaired:

I found a way to unstick the macerator, and it worked!
There is a notch on the shaft; I turned it with a screw driver last night and today
It worked!



I love it when things don’t have to be replaced
Ivan lmaster@softhome.net

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chafing on hoses and electrical wiring, Right after delivery, I had to protect a few hoses around the engines that were chafing here and there...(I have done the same, using hose slit longways and tie-wraps).
I found the pump room piping well protected. Different assembly crew,, different day?

"Available from Home Depot"

Yes, there is space for a built in soap dispenser in the kitchen, same model as the bathroom. When coming in from handling dock lines this is the first faucet you see. When I had my transducers cut through the bottom I asked the installer to use his hole saws to mount this too.

"Whole Boat" Water filtration system.

I chose the carbon and particulate filter to remove the smell taste and grit. We now fill our fresh water tank in the boat by connecting to the dock source via the stern water connection, and connecting yet another hose to the fresh water wash down spigot in the wash down box on the rear deck. We use that second hose to fill the water tank so the dock water goes through the filter before it hits the fresh water tank. We have installed quick connects on all the hoses and it's quick and slick. This installation is on a 4600SCB, some marina water has a NASTY Smell & Taste

Finding water in the bilge of your boat, Dick says: "attach a 21/2' lenght of plastic hose to the pressure relief valve on the water heater (4600 SCB) put the end into a 2 liter plastic bottle and no water will go into the bilge. Empty the bottle about once a month. They tell me it's normal to get water from the relief valve when you turn the water heater on and off as we do weekly. Ladyz@utm.net

Shower Sump Pumps, on the 4600 SCB the lift height for the water to get to the outboard drain is such that when the float switch turns the pump off the remaining water in the hose falls back into the sump causing. This causes the float switch to rise and pump to turn back on again. (The Hobby Horse syndrome, back and forth) We’ve had this happen in other boats and immediately installed a check valve, (West Marine), in line. Now the water goes up the hose but not back down. Note: This can also happen to some bilge pumps. 12/99 Also, the float switch used on this pump, is a heavy electro-magnetic float switch, newer 2000 model Maxum's have a manual test lever on the side of the float. If you are having trouble or if you have a Pre 2000 boat you might want to try a new one, Johnson Pump Part # 3625. 9/00 The Original Mayfair/Johnson Sump Pump was 750 GPH, the new 2000 model is 1000 GPH, the literature says there is a Built in Check Valve, ours never had one. 9/00

Looking for a replacement for your shower sump, its a Johnson Pump # 32-7650-01
Johnson Pump - http://www.johnson-pump.com/JPMarine/default.html
Johnson Pump of America 847-671-7867

Trim Tabs: D Kendrick the owner of a 4100 SCR has had some reoccurring problems with the trim tabs on his boat. "The first failure was caused by someone stepping on the oil line at the transom and kinking it. It broke off shortly after the boat was put in service. The second failure was caused by the mechanic who installed the repair fittings wrong so that they "blew off" under pressure. I have noticed that the oil pump/reservoir is mounted tilted at an angle on the back on the transom. This causes the oil pickup to be on an angle. The angle is made even larger when underway. This prevents filling the reservoir completely because the oil runs out when underway. So far I have just kept an eye on the oil level to be sure there is oil available. I plan to remount the pump/reservoir at a better attitude and relocate it for more accessibility (it is behind the generator) but that it low on a long list of more important fixes. Dkendric@aol.com

Forgive me but I do not remember who had this problem, but It was reported that the kitchen sinks drain piping failed and had to be replaced. It was reported that it sagged and then split open. While on our trip one of us dumped a pot of hot water into the sink after cooking pasta in it. Our friend David jumped up and turned on the tap water. He told us Never, Never do that! The plastic drain piping is rated at 140 degrees, boiling water is 212 degrees. This was the reason for our other owners failed drain pipe. The logic is the same wether it is a boat or your house. James 8/00


To receive information from the Maxum Sports Yacht Owners Group,
send your name, hull #, and tip, if you have one to James, @BilleGates@aol.com