Read the instructions, the owner of the boat next to mine was cleaning his teak, and to do this he choose to use a two part teak cleaner. The instructions said to use nonporous silicone gloves with these chemicals. Use part one first and apply to teak with brush #1, then fully clean the teak off with fresh water, then use part two and brush #2, and then fully clean the teak by flushing fresh water over it. When dry then apply your teak oil to the wood to seal it.
Our neighbor forgot to buy gloves and wanted to get the job done, he only had a small amount of teak. He did the job without gloves. All went well till he got to part #2. As you may have guessed part one was a strong base and, part two was a strong acid. As he was working with part #2, his hands got slippery and they started to sting. He finished the small job and kept flushing water on his hands to get the chemicals off. After 5 minutes of flushing he stopped to discover he had cleaned a layer of skin off his hands. Actually he burnt off his fingerprints, it took two months for them to re-appear. Read the instructions. James 2/2001

General Cleaning Notes:

Solvents

Paint Thinner
The best accepted, most economical, general purpose solvent.
Thinning: A general purpose solvent. Use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Do not use with shellac, lacquers or latex paints. Helps increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Extends drying time slightly. Aids leveling.
Cleaning: A mild solvent. Use to clean painting tools while coating is still wet. Will not soften dry paint well.

Lacquer Thinner
A thinner for one part epoxies and lacquer wood finishes.
Thinning: This is a specialized thinner. Use to thin epoxy or two part coatings. Consult coating manufacturers specifications. Use to thin nitrocellulose based wood lacquers. Do not use with acrylic lacquers, automotive lacquers, varnishes, shellac, polyurethanes or paints.
Cleaning: Clean painting tools after painting. Will soften most types of coatings with overnight immersion in Lacquer Thinner. Will attack some synthetic brushes. The favorite for cutting grease on metal parts, etc. Prolonged exposure can attack seals and gaskets. Much stronger than Paint Thinner and more flammable.

Denatured Alcohol
The safest, purest grade of denatured ethyl alcohol.
Thinning: Alcohol is used to thin shellac based products only. Use with clear or orange shellac or pigmented shellac primers. Do not use with other finishes.
Cleaning: A specialty cleaner. Use to clean painting tools after using shellac. Will soften dry or hard shellac. Can dissolve most inks, lipsticks, crayons and many other stains. General: This is the best grade of fuel for alcohol chafing dishes and stoves. Complete combustion produces no harmful gases or vapor. Alcohol is soluble in water and can be used as an anti-freeze agent. However, it evaporates rapidly and is flammable. Read cautions on the container before using.

Gum Turpentine
The best quality paint solvent.
Thinning: The ideal strength for thinning most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Not compatible with shellac, lacquers and latex paints. Helps increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Will not increase drying time noticeably. Aids leveling.
Cleaning: Gum Turpentine leaves a slight rosin residue. Excellent for cleaning brushes and paint roller trays after painting.
General: Made from the living pine tree. Gum Turpentine is the painter's traditional favorite. Its strength and evaporation rate are the same as most paints. Read cautions on label carefully.

Acetone
The strongest, fastest evaporating solvent.
Thinning: A specialty solvent. Use only where directed. Generally for epoxies, fiberglass resins and specialty coatings. Acetone is too strong to use in thinning most coatings.
Cleaning: Use to clean painting tools after applying any type of coating. Will soften hardened coating with overnight immersion. Caution: Will soften most synthetic materials. General: The extreme strength limits thinning uses to specialty coatings. The high evaporation rate also means it is very flammable.

VM&P Naphtha
The varnish makers and painters solvent.
Thinning: An excellent thinner for most oil based paints, stains, varnishes and polyurethanes. Do not use with lacquers, shellac or latex paints.
Cleaning: VM&P is one of the best petro-chemical spot cleaners. Removes dirt, grease, tar spots, etc. It may soften synthetic plastics, fabrics, rubber or the dyes in printed fabric. Read the warnings on the container before using.

Mineral Spirits
A high grade, quality solvent, low odor.
Thinning: A general purpose solvent. Use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Do not use with shellac, lacquers or latex paints. Helps increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Extends drying time slightly. Aids leveling.
Cleaning: A mild solvent. Use to clean painting tools while coating is still wet.

Kerosene
The water-white, 1-K grade solvent.
Thinning: Kerosene can be used in place of Paint Thinner, however, it will increase drying time.
Cleaning: Use to clean wet painting tools after applying oil based paints, stains, varnishes or polyurethanes.
General: Kerosene is mainly a fuel. This is the purest, lowest sulfur grade available.

Xylol
A solvent for specialty coatings and uses.
Thinning: Use as directed to thin many lacquers, rust inhibitive, rubberized, marine and other specialty coatings. Do not use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, shellac or polyurethanes.
Cleaning: Clean painting tools. For all types of coatings except shellac. General: Most uses for Xylol are in specialized coating systems where its use is carefully designated. Xylol fumes are flammable and ingestion is dangerous. Read label cautions carefully.

Toluol
A solvent for specialty coatings and uses.
Thinning: Use as directed to thin many lacquers, rust inhibitive, rubberized, marine and other specialty coatings. Do not use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, shellac or polyurethanes.
Cleaning: Clean painting tools. For all types of coatings except shellac. General: Most uses for Toluol are in specialized coating systems where its use is carefully designated.

MEK
The high strength solvent with a moderate evaporation rate.
Thinning: A specialty solvent. Use only where directed. Generally for epoxies, fiberglass resins and specialty coatings.
Cleaning: Use to clean painting tools after applying any type of coating. Will soften hardened coating with overnight immersion. Caution: Will soften most synthetic materials. General: This is a solvent with a strength equal to Acetone but with a slower evaporation rate. It is flammable. Read cautions on the label carefully.

Thanks to the Parks Company http://www.parkscorp.com/solvents.html for the above information.

Grease

Grease is an acid, to get it off you need a base, we did this in science class a number of years ago. A base cleaner can be a pure alcohol, like "everclear" which is 90% alcohol and sold in liquor stores, or plain ammonia. The problem with using alcohol is the danger of fire from the fumes, ammonia the smell. We have been using "Grease Lightning" on our fuel, oil and grease stains with excellent results. Before this we used "Simple Green" with good results.

Acid stains are what "CLR" stands for Calcium, Lime and Rust. Correct, to get off acid stains we need a base. Simple bases are the juice of a lemon, or vinegar. For fiberglass stains we suggest using a product like Davis FSR with oxalic acid, usually sold in small jars. For calcium and lime CLR works pretty well.

Anything that we can't remove with a solvent we use the light abrasive, "Soft Scrub, with clorox with bleach", a base. James 2/2001

Exterior:

Dash Board

I have had multiple Maxum Owners complain of their aluminum wood grained dashboards failing. Specifically, the dashboard has corrosion under the wood grain that is lifting the wood grain finish off and leaving "spots." This occurs at about two to three years of service and shows up more in saltwater boats.

A Partial Answer: The lifting of the woodgrain from the aluminum dashboards is due to corrosion, aluminum oxide is developing under the dashboards. You might envision this as rust under painted steel. Steel rusts, aluminum corrodes. It seams to get there either from a nicks scrapes and scratches that we the owners have done. Or in some cases from improper manufacturer. A culprit is also not replacing all of the nylon washers that protect the dash from the black anodized screws. When you install the screws without the nylon washers, the heads of the screws tend to abrade and crack through the dash's wood grained surface and expose the base of aluminum. Moisture and air begin the corrosion. Like magic you have made Aluminum Oxide. Steve Meece, (US Marine) will continue to look into the corroding dash panels with the Miami based vendor during the Miami boat show 2/2001.

8/2001 No news from Steve. But this from other owners.

Dash Panels. Early Dash Panels were made for Maxum by Tecnographics, a South Florida company, 954-928-1714 they blister under the wood grain. No, not just around the screws. Samples have been sent back to Maxum from the field, but we have received no response as to what we are to do. I suspect you can buy new panels made from the new panel manufacturer through your dealer and have them installed. I just look at them and after a while put them out of my mind, my boat was built in late 99. My switch panels are bad, but instrument panel is starting to catch up. I have verified that this is because they were made by different manufacturers, there is a slight difference in the wood grain. James 7/03

Pascal, our 3700 SCR Master Mariners Says: I was looking at my dash, some are perfect
(the gauge panel and the small right side panel) Others like the 2 electronic panels and the VHF / keys panels are corroding badly.

All of my "wood grain" dash panels have corroded. I am glad to know that I am not alone with that problem. Doug Kendrick Raleigh, NC DKendric@aol.com

Dash Blistering: Yep. I put in new ones thanks to the Raytheon guys who overtightened the screws. The new dash has not blistered but it is real important to keep the salt spray off that material. It won't take much to blister. Ed White esjwhite@uswest.net


Dash Panels, What to do NOW. This is a maintenance item, unfortunately, and perhaps a replacement Item. You MUST ALWAYS replace your Nylon washers, you can find them at Lowes, Home Depot, Boaters World, West Marine, and Boat US. Also, on your next trip to the Marine Store buy a can of "Corrosion Block" sold in a spray can, 4oz or 12oz take your choice. Apply it to any edge where aluminum and the dash material meet, it has a capillary action that pulls it into any voids and seal them. You can and should use Corrosion Block on you electrical switches as described in the Maintenance section of the Maxum Owners website, under, "Electrical", subsection, Switches and Breakers. This stuff really works. So to recap, this is a maintenance item, Tecnographics says they can re-do them for you. Contact them @ Technographics, 954-928-1714. www.tecnografic.com

Other dash information, is that the studs that hold in the instruments have at one time been welded in, they are now installed by a Sikkens cement. The welding process left small dimples on the face of the dash. James 2/2001

On the console panel, I removed the black screws which lose their paint covering very easily and installed stainless steel screws using stainless steel finishing washers. They look orders of magnitude better. I run my Maxum 4600 SCB in the roughest seas around on the West Coast and have not seen any dash corrosion. I always put on the dash cover even with the bridge completely enclosed when the boat is not in use. Still a great boat. Ed White esjwhite@uswest.net 2/2001
If you are going to do this, please use Nylon Washers under the Stainless Steel finishing washers. James

Behind the dashboards, the Rubber O-rings that are used as spacers on the instruments deteriorate and fall apart. I have tried new ones purchased locally and they do the same thing. There is no tension on compression that causes it. The failure is complete in every part of the O-ring. There are literally cracks in every part of the O-ring. Some tears are so big that the O-ring splits in two or three pieces. This is not a safety issue or even a failure point on the mounting of the instruments. It's just is awful to see when you take the dash apart.

Fiberglass and Gel Coat

Cleaning Fiberglass and Gel Coat, I remember one summer 5 years ago going out to Ace Hardware and buying and buying a gallon on cleaner on a isle end cap. I used it for the summer on the interior of our boat (a 26' sports fisherman) to clean the everyday wear and tear. The interiors wax started not to sparkle and the boat became harder and harder to keep clean. I finally read the cleaner. It was made to clean all right, but the instructions on the back in small print said it was made to be used before painting your house and was specifically not to be used on fiberglass, or any other surface that was not to be "Painted Immediately. The lesson is use only an auto cleaner, or a boat cleaner, and be careful on the boat cleaners, West Marine sells two types of cleaner in their stores. One that will remove some of your boats wax called "Boat Soap" it's pink in color and one that will not called Crystal Boat Wash. Read the small print on the labels and stick with the same products that work. Acetone works great on cleaning Gel Coat, just remember to read the directions, and clear the area with water when you are done. When working with Acetone keep in mind that it is very volatile.

Interior Fiberglass, Acrylic, (bathroom molded pieces) as well as counter and sink tops, "Gel-Gloss" one step cleaner polish is the best. Pink spray can white top, available @ Home Depot and others.

Gel Coat Repair Kit… Did you know that your Maxum dealer sells a gel coat repair kit? Yep, Color "Dream White" Part # F55-39853. "Easy to use"

Is your hulls Gel Coat showing a Brownish Yellow Stain? B Robinson's 4100 SCB was, and here's his story. "Some of the 1998 41' SCB's had a gel coat problem, too much Styrene in the gel coat which shows up as a Brownish Yellow stain. It can be corrected by using a chemical spray called TUF-ENUF F-239 industrial strength bilge cleaner made by - Wallace + Sons, St Augestine, FL. 904-794-5161. Available @ boating stores. Just spray it on and it leaches out some of the styrene stain, then power buffing with 3-M Heavy buffing compound and finish off with waxing. This information from Jerry Titus of Maxum Marine." I have heard of styrene staining from the owners of Maxum's, under 37' but this is the first report of a styrene stain in our size range. James. 9/99. Since then there have been (spots) in some boat, easy to fix with the right stuff. James 2/2001

When you've asked just about everyone you can think of, ask the manufacturer.
And that just what I did, I called Cook Composites the manufacturer of the US Marines Gel Coat used in the Maxum Boats. I spoke to their Gel Coat representative, Larry and discussed, the problems some owners are experiencing (myself included) with "Yellow Deck" and "Styrene Blotching." Terms Larry was somewhat unfamiliar with. He did however know of the problem and was an additional source of information on the subject. Fact of life #1, Gel Coats yellow and loose their gloss when exposed to UV rays. The same type of fading happens with paint on a house and on a car. What can we do to slow this down and possibly prevent it? Wash the boat often, washing removes the pollutants that drop on the boat that were in the air, sulfur from the power plant, exhaust emissions, bird droppings, etc. Keep wax on the boat, be sure to use a UV stabilized wax, or one with a UV stabilizer in it. Regular wax without UV stabilizers or UV stabilization protects for 2 to 3 days and then stops. High priced polymer waxes are no better than regular waxes. Never use Pledge or similar products on a Gel Coat they contain oils which can penetrate the Gel Coat which is porous causing you tremendous staining. Rubbing compounds generally contain an amount of oil also, therefore you must always water flush the area after using a rubbing compound BEFORE applying wax. Now as to the question, does Gel Coat contain Styrene? Larry says yes, BUT the Styrene is Polymerized by the time you get it. Why use Styrene anyway? Larry's the Styrene is necessary to connect the polymer bonds in the material so that it can properly catalyze. Also, additional Styrene is sometimes added in the building process by the Boat Manufacturer as a thinning agent depending on the material density, flow through the gun and the temperature.
With all that said what are the stains really. My best guess is that the stains on the decks are probably Gel Coat that was not waxed and the "Yellow Deck" is Gel Coat that was not waxed with a UV Protective sealant. There is a smaller chance that the problem is Styrene. The blotches are most likely caused by fiberglass repair while in the plant, they have a distinctive spray pattern to them. The repairs were most likely voids in the molding, very common in the boat building process. The repairs should have been UN detectable, and indeed were until the UV hit them and they changed color.
Now that I have them, how do you get the discoloration out. Soap and water was the first thing Larry said. Tough Enough Bilge Cleaner was the choice of US Marine. Larry said to go through your cleaners from mildest to the strongest. As you exhaust your cleaners he suggested using both families of organic stain's the first would be Acetone or other fast evaporating thinners theses are in the Aliphatic family. The second would be Xylene or Tylnene these are in the Aromatic family. Larry says "Like dissolves Like". Meaning you have to find out what you have that's causing the stain and find a like product to lift it. In the later part of our conversation he suggested fine sandpaper. The end.
Dave form Maxum says, After I got your last inquiry I called our infield fiberglass repair specialist, a person that has done a number of these types of repairs. Assuming we are working with a problem caused by UV Rays, we tackle the repair using bilge cleaners and wet sanding it into the area. Your Instructions for Tuff-Enuf are sound and we have found once the area is worked it doesn't come back.

As you wet sand the cleaner into the gelcoat the area should turn a bright yellow. This isn't something to be concerned with as long as you don't over sand the area and go through the gelcoat. Once this is done the area needs to be buffed using a high speed buffer.

If your contact has really reached the end of his wits, find out where he is and maybe there is a chance our "guy" can swing by and take a look. It wouldn't be warranty but we might be able to offer some assistance. If you need Dave to set this up please E-mail me and I will forward your request to him. James 5/2001

Gas Shocks, your gas shocks use two different types of brackets. One is Stainless Steel and the other is an Epoxy Coated Steel bracket. My rear lifting doors brackets on the stern are made from epoxy coated steel and are now after just one year rusting. But my stern hatch uses Stainless Steel brackets which are just fine. The replacement Stainless Steel part to buy is from West Marine "Attwood Spring Lift brackets, 90 degree with a 10mm ball" West Maine Part # 318900. The Rear Gas Shocks are made by SPD, part # SPD-GS-5250-20, Ph# 215-639-7810. The Shocks are also available from most marine and auto stores, expect them to rust out in a few years, just think of it as a maintenance item. The blocking Maxum installs for the stern door brackets was loose and was re-tightened by peeking under the weather stripping and applying a Philips screwdriver. The top right is the new Stainless Steel replacement bracket.

Waxing

What a wide range of products there are now days. We pay six to eight dollars a foot to have the topsides waxed and when were hauled out we pay three dollars a foot to have the sides done. I'm hot on 3M products. And I like the 3M Marine Protective Wax, preferably the one with Teflon in it when I can find it. It's expensive and there may be something better out there. Tell me what you use and I'll pass along the information.

The Great Wax and Cleaner stories: I've had very good success with Fleet's wax which is also recommended repeatedly by Powerboat Reports and its sister publication Practical Sailor. The wax isn't cheap but it goes a long way if the boat is prepped (clean) right. I used less than half a can on our 4100 SCA. Also, the manufacturer recommends hand waxing which my wife and I did, on and off, on and off. I did change, during cleaning, from hand application to a random orbital buffer but removed the cleaner by hand. biff@13-inc.com More to follow I'm sure.

CAN ANYONE RECOMMEND A REALLY LONG LASTING BOAT WAX, EITHER MARINE OR AUTO. I HAVE TRIED THEM ALL BOTH CHEAP AND EXPENSIVE AND NOT HAPPY WITH ANY OF THEM." Ladyz@utm.net

SS Polishing

I've been using 3M, Marine Metal Restorer and Polish, it comes in a 3 oz tube and is just under $10. I've used it for a season on our 4600 SCB and still have 1/2 a tube. A little goes a long way and does it ever work. Stainless Steel has a unique property, the more you polish it, the less it needs to be polished. Polishing removes the impurities that cause it tarnish.

Stainless Steel: Did you know there are over 500 types of Stainless Steel! And yes, Stainless Steel can rust. 300 series is marine grade stainless, 304 is better, 316 better yet. Numbering goes up to at least 450! Welding and manufacturing can often cause surface crevice corrosion and the impurities in the Stainless can cause internal galvanic corrosion in the material. Stainless Steel likes oxygen, and does poorly when deprived of it such as in underwater installations. This is another reason water is pushed through the stern tube of you boat, to oxygenate the water trapped in the stern tube around the shaft. Stress corrosion cracking and fatigue are also common problems. This is not a material to make a fuel tank out of. (Ours are made out of Aluminum.) Just a note: Polishing removes the impurities from the surface of the Stainless Steel. The more you polish, the less you have to polish.

Sunbrella & Plexiglas

I am asking for help here, I put on a custom top made from Weblon, I like to pressure wash (a lot) and the Weblon takes it where as Sunbrella does not. Any Input? JC 2/00

Pledge works great to clean and polish isinglass. biff@13-inc.com

Zippers on the soft top need to be sprayed with "Silicone" to keep them moving smoothly.

Bottom Paint

Running Gear: Your boat was originally painted with Pettit Copper Guard #1048, Black. I recently after 12 months in Southern salt water hauled out and repainted with Pettit ACP-50 Black, a ablative Multi Season paint, (note there is also an ACP-50+ out now). The yard used Pettit's #6456 Underwater Metal Kit to prep the Stainless Steel and Bronze for the application of the bottom paint onto the running gear. 11/99 Report: This just didn't work on our boat. 3/01 We went to a TBT paint and undercoat process in 3/01 with good results on the running gear, but TBT is now banned so were out there again looking. JC

Well, one season with Pettit's Underwater metal kit has shown it has failed to do the job. The Pettit ACP-50 has done a good job after one years service. I have head other reports that Trinidad SR, and Micron CSC Extra are also working well. All three are ablative Multi Season paints, all are on our recommended list. The % of solids represents the amount of copper compounds in the paint.

1.- Trinidad SR with 70% Solids, http://www.petitprod.com

2.- Micron CSC Extra with 55% Solids, http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

3.- ACP 50 with 50% Solids, http://www.petitprod.com

James 1/2001

We have been using Intralux ACT bottom paint with very poor results. I am trying to find out from others if they have also been having problems with this paint. Drew Stevens @ Plano Marine, Texas YachtDr1@aol 1/00

I had chosen to try Trinadad SR, in March of 2001, it lasted two years, until April of 2003 here in Florida with monthly bottom cleanings, having a diver do the bottom monthly is a must in Florida, not a option. Acceptable performance, all things considered. Jim Clausen, 4600 SCB. St. Petersburg, MM.

Interior:

Water System

Maintenance on our fresh water system? Yes. You have probably been on a boat where you have been told not to drink the boats water. With simple care there will be no reason for you to say this to guests and you can drink you own water without a care. Tap water is usually purified with chlorine, and chlorine "out gasses" when it hits the air, such as air in the top of your fresh water tank. AND… the chlorine leaves the water. Water without chlorine starts to grow things, and hence the beginning of BAD WATER. What can you do? To eliminate this you could add a table spoon of chlorine into the boats fresh water tank on a timely basis, this will help. But let me suggest another method. Replace ALL the water in your entire system and start anew. It's simple, it's foolproof, and it works. Turn on all of your water faucets and empty your fresh water holding tank down the drain once every two months. When the tank is empty and you are pumping only air, refill the tank, but to make sure you have drained all the old water out of the system leave all the water faucets open. Once they start running with new water you can close them. Bon appetite. You also have a filter on the fresh water pump it should be looked at yearly?
I include an article from the Great Lakes Cruising Club on Safe Drinking Water on Boats from GLCC Fleet Surgeon, Jack Bailey, MD, take it away Jack,

Safe drinking water on cruising boats is obviously very important to all of us. In order to obtain some expert advice, I recently consulted a specialist on the subject, Dr. Penny Sutcliffe, Medical Officer of Health for Sudbury and district. Dr. Sutcliffe has kindly supplied the information, which follows:

Spring Cleaning of Drinking Water Storage Tanks

a.- Whether you are opening up the summer cottage or your local boat for the season, it is a must to clean and disinfect your water supply system.

b.- Thoroughly flush out any antifreeze that was used to winterize your boat's water tank. Always use non-toxic antifreeze to winterize.

c.- Super chlorinate by filling the water tank with a solution of 1 ounce of unscented household chlorine bleach per 1-gallon tank capacity.

d.- Turn on all faucets one at a time until a bleach odor is noticed. Keep the system pressurized and let the chlorinated solution stand for 3-4 hours in the entire water distribution system.

e.- Remove the aerators from the faucets and drain the tank through the sinks. This will allow for the clear flow of any bio-film that may have built up in the water lines.

f.- Refill the water tanks repeatedly with fresh water and flush until the water runs clear and smells clean. Use a chlorine test kit, if available, to ensure that the chlorine has been diluted to safe levels (0.1 - 0.2 parts per million). Never Assume Dock Water is Safe

g.- Before refilling your fresh water tank at any marina always ask questions.

h.- If your marina attendant does not know the source of the water supply, never assume it is safe to drink. Marinas located in small or remote centers may have their own private water systems. Although these systems may have some form of treatment, very few will meet the strict treatment or filtration requirements imposed on municipal systems.

i.- If there is any doubt about the safety of the water, boil it for at least one minute. The water can be cooled and stored in clean containers.

j.- As an alternative treat each tankful with chlorine bleach. Add 1 ounce of unscented household chlorine bleach per 50-gallon tank capacity. Stir to mix and let stand for at least 2-3 hours.

k.- Test the mixture with your chlorine test kit to ensure a free available chlorine residual between 0.1 and 0.2 parts per million.

* Individuals who do not like the taste of chlorinated water may consider the use of an activated carbon water filter after treatment.
* It should be noted that chlorination alone does not kill intestinal parasites such as giardia or cryptosporidium.
* Before using any marina water always turn the hose to waste for at least 5-10 minutes to clear the lines. The same organisms that like the water lines in your boat also like a dock supply line sitting in the hot sun.
* Maintain a logbook of marinas that you used for refilling water tanks. If your family comes down with an intestinal disorder that may be water related, contact your nearest health department.
* Never use untreated surface water for any domestic purpose.

Robert Vlick rvlick@earthlink.net our 4100 SCR Master Mariner adds,
The only thing that I would add is that if you are using a charcoal filter, watch how long you allow the water to sit in the holding tank "Untreated". Charcoal filters do a good job of purifying the water, but it will go sour in a short period of time and it too will grow the bad stuff. As I understand it, I don't have one, but a UV system is the best solution to keep the drinking water pure and odor free. The least expensive solution is to find a water treatment chemical, West Marine used to sell one called "Sweet Water", and it helped remove the chlorine taste.

James Clausen adds, we flush our fresh water tank often. Once things take hold and "grow" in a sealed polypropylene tank, you may kill them but their dead bodies fall to the bottom of the tank and slosh around for the life of the boat. When traveling and using the boat daily we simply taste the dock water and decide to fill the tank through our a portable charcoal filter or directly from the hose. If there is a hint of smell or bad taste I go through the charcoal filter. When the water is sweet I just shove the hose end in. The problem with using the charcoal filter all the time is that it strips the chlorine out of the water and then the water goes sour within a couple of week to a month. This is down south in sunny Florida, up North you get a bit more time. As careful as we are we flush the whole system out every three months. We turn off the hot water heater before we flush the internal tank. If the heaters electrical element is exposed to the air when powered up it will self destruct. Using the boats internal water pump we empty the internal tank then fill it 1/4 of the way and empty again, then we refill the tank. Then we hook up the dock water to the internal connection and open every water faucet in the boat, don't forget the fresh water washdown, and outside sink if you have one, open ALL hot and cold faucets, yes both of them. Run them at least 15 minutes. Start in the stern and turn them off going forward. If you have an ice maker let two full containers pass through it. We've installed a "whole boat filter" on the internal dock connection. If were on board for the whole Summer everyday I use the charcoal cartridge, when docksucking for extended periods, I have a cotton 20 mil coarse filter that I use when we are weekenders. I've never had to add anything to the water tank, even when up north for a winter season, we used indoor heater storage for the boat when on the Erie canal. I used to feel funny flushing my fresh water tanks on the dock for 15 or so minutes, but I never got sick from my boats water, and neither have my guests. Jim Clausen billegates@aol.com
PS: bottled water is dated to be good, "stable" for 2 years.

Holding Tank

Holding tank odors. We've had them, they are an on going maintenance item. Here is what we found, and what we did to combat them. We found multiple sources which have compounded the odor problem, here they are. When our forward Air Conditioner drained inside the forward bilge and it created stagnant water, about 30 gallons of it. We had 3" to 4"" of water trapped under the forward area of our 4600 SCB, (same with the 4100 SCB & 4100 SCA). We corrected the problem by pumping the water out of where it was trapped and by connecting the air conditioners drain into the forward sump pump and then the air conditioners condensate water automatically pumps overboard. Your boats holding tank has a carbon filter on the vent of the tank, it looses its effectiveness and must be replaced yearly, so Taylor Made says. We use Headzyme from West Marine to control the odor inside of the tank. We've tried K.O. but prefer Headzyme. We have had all of the piping inspected and the side wall of all the piping in our boat is stamped "sanitary grade" piping, the "blue strip must be replaced every 2-3 year. The new red strip product is rated longer, 6-8 year perhaps. Even so this is not good enough. We have been advised to replace our holding pump out tube with a dip tube, but a dip tube won't fit in the 4600 SCB's tank. This dip tube would have allowed us to pump out all but 1/2" of the holding tank's waste. As it is now the pump out of the tank stops as the top of the side mounted tube picks up air, leaving about 3" of waste in the tank at all times and waste lies in the pipes leading up to the pump out. We've also found a dripping water connection on the bathroom sink. And finally because we feel that the holding tank area must be vented. We have installed a 3" tube to the pump room and have it connected to a 3" mini fan which operates from the bathroom fan switch, it also operates from solar power. billegates@aol 8/00

After all that, my boat still smelled like sh_t. I don't like saying it, but you could smell it in the bilge and when you opened the pump room or bilge access hatches. I cleaned, I sprayed, I vented, I added ozone, I changed holding tank vent filters, I added chemicals. I ignored it when I couldn't find or fix it. Then John, a Sealand trained guy from Winter Harbor looked at it. I explained what I did. He explained it would do no good until I removed all the "Blue Strip" Sealand waste hose and replace it with Sealand "Red Strip" hose. Sealand Red Strip hose came out about 2 years ago in 1998-9? The Blue Strip hose is only rated for 2-3 years of service. After that it becomes permeated with the sewage smell and must be removed. He also suggested a dip tube be installed, in place of the side pickup. In our boat a 4600 SCB this was impracticable because of limited top clearance. A dip tube goes into the tank from the top, it connects to the waste pump out connection on the deck. The idea is any waste not picked up will slip slide back down the pipe into the tank and not sit in the hose. Here's a question to Maxum, On my 4600 my waste tank is on the Port, why did you put my pump out on the Starboard? That 15+ feet of extra stinky hose! AND you designed the tank so the wastes incoming fitting is in the far inside rear of the tank, impossible to get to after installation without removing the tank. We finally fixed this by removing all the old blue strip hose and changing the pump out fitting to the Post side. Further we added a air pump to the tank, similar to a Groco "Sweet Air" system.
Well, this is another case of BOAT, Break Out Another Thousand.
That's just about what it will cost you, but it is well worth it. Jc 7/03

Vinyl

Your boat came with a sheet on the care of it's vinyl it was in the big brown book with all of the system manuals. If you can't find it ask Maxum customer service for another copy. Is your vinyl ripped, or stained, Maxum gets their vinyl for their wall ceiling and cushions from G+T Industries, Marine Services Group, 800-967-7753, Trish is the US Marine contact there. Vinyl is in Pearl White and Gel White.

Some of US Marine Vinyl has turned "yellow" from the backing foam outgassing and leaching into the vinyls color. 4/02

Woodwork

The Interior Woodwork in later model boats is dyed, not stained, just when in the production serial numbers is not known. The woodwork must be treated with care, and one tip from a factory representative is to add soft coverings to the ends of the vacuum to prevent scratching and denting the woodwork. I have a Cherry Interior, and use Van Goug, Lt. Oxide Red, to match the Pin Rail color VGH53390, Available @ Cheap Joe’s 800-227-2788 for about three bucks. I use a Minwax "Blend-Fill" pencil #7 for marks on the cherry. I recently was doing another job and gave the filler pencil to Patti, when I came back to look, and look I did, I found no trace of her handy work. I use Miniwax, Poly Cyrillic. Clear Satin, (water base) to seal the wood. For real damage call in a professional or if you want to become a professional, call Mohawk Finish Company and ask for their catalog, @ 518-843-1380.

Fiberglass

Need to re-coat the inside of your bilge? The paint, actually a gel coat is used in the bilge of the of US Marine products from 1975 to 2000 it is called "White Base Coat #6"

FYI: Dream White is the color of your Gel Coat on boats before model year 2002, in 2002 the Gel Coat color went to Arctic White.

US Marine # F50-F7220 available in quarts, about $46.00 per qt + a hazardous materials shipping cost of $10. to $15. It has a shelf life of up to 8 months so don't order too much. You can order it through your Maxum dealer and even have it drop shipped @ your home or boat. PS: I've been told you can order parts etc. for your Maxum through Bayliner, Sea Ray, Robolo, etc. I've tried my local Sea Ray and Bayliner dealers but had no luck in matching part numbers. 1/00

I met a 4100 SCA owner in Michigan at the same dock we were staying at. While talking on the back deck he pointed out two 3/16 holes in his fiberglass headliner on the stern. He said he was tired of dirty water coming out of his overhead lights when we went up on plane with the boat. He drilled the two holes to drain any trapped water between the boats top and the sterns headliner, it drained black water for days, then nothing. I drilled holes in the same place in my 4600 SCB, no water came out, I'll use them for vents!

I have had minimum problem with water in the headliner of the aft cockpit as my bridge canvas goes right back to the radar bridge and then closes aft the radar bridge all around with isenglass. I did at time of purchase as I did not want the bridge carpet exposed to the rain. US Marine factory canvas stops well forward of the radar bridge and the isenglass drops straight down at the staircase entrance. When I bought S/N #006, I met the fellow who took delivery of S/N #013 which had factory canvas and his carpet was always soaked and he had two gallons of water above the headliner which he found while drilling holes for a rod holder. I really enjoy the website. It is very helpful. Ed White esjwhite@uswest.net

In a message dated 2/4/02 6:57:09 AM, rgodek@hondaconnectors.com writes:

Hi James,
I own a 1998 Maxum 4100SCA (Hull# BVKA33YAB898), you dropped off your card while you visited Reefpoint Marina, Racine, WI several years ago. Thanks for the card.... I am a constant visitor to the website! I have found a lot of useful information. I seem to recall reading something about 3/16" drain holes being drilled into the aft hardtop to allow trapped water to drain. Can you give me some additional information as to where these holes are to placed? I guess the bigger question is how is the water entering the hardtop?

I have experienced finding a liquid looking like Coke Cola on the swim platform while cruising, of course this was after the boat was on plane. I accused my wife of throwing a drink overboard...she denied it...but,

That's another story. The reason for my concern is I just came back from checking out the "Mo Baby" as she is currently lay-up for the winter, I notice the same Coke-like liquid oozing from the shrink-wrap. I climbed aboard and found that the aft cabin starboard vertical support had ruptured at the upper weld and had sprayed the coke-like liquid over the aft deck. I am assuming that there was enough trapped water in the hardtop to cause this problem. Have any of my fellow aft cabin owners experienced such a problem?
Regards, Bob Godek (630) 227-0081 rgodek@hondaconnectors.com

Bob feel free to give me a call I've got "coke" coming from the upper side drains. I've also forwarded your E-mail to Kennie Richardson of Maxum for his comments. James Clausen, Maxum Owners Group

Thank you very much for your reply. I spoke to a fellow named Jamie Wright, he is a former Salisbury worker that left Maxum and joined the local Maxum dealer, Pier 33, in St. Joe, Michigan....well that was until Pier 33, Maxum's number one dealer dropped the line last year. Jamie is acting as a local subcontractor for Maxum. Jamie told me that the "resin water" (coke) was a problem on the 4600. I too have the "resin water" leaking on the portside of the flybridge on my 4100SCA. He stated that he had not heard of any "resin water" problems on the aft cabin hardtop, however, after I described how the support for the hardtop had ruptured, he agreed that water must be getting into the hardtop. The mysterious part is the supports are supposed to be sealed at both ends...Hmmmmm.

Hi James, After reading this months new letter I have the problem with the "coke" coming out of my 4600 SCB fly bridge drains. Is this something that will cure itself and is there any long-term damage that can occur? My boat is kept under roof so only sees water when I wash it and therefore I have only seen the "coke" effect twice. Bob Bowers

The "coke stains" have gone away on our boat for a while. They seam to have been trapped in the sandwich under the bridge deck and salon ceiling. They showed themselves as "coke stains' down the side, the stern, and out of the overhangs outdoor speakers. They only lasted 3 to 6 months originally and have come back, after 2 years, exactly what they were, I do not know. James Clausen 4/02

Jim, I also had water dripping from the wiring access panel in the ceiling of the hardtop on my 4100SCA. Upon removing the panel, I found water coming in through the fasteners for the anchor/all-around light. I re-bedded the fixture and the fasteners and that took care of the problem. Roger Wothe

Windshield Blistering on Window Frames
So far the problems with the blistering on the window frames seems to be limited to the addition of Stainless Steel snaps pop riveted into the Aluminum window frames by the Maxum Plant in Salisbury, MD. The process causes over time very slight blistering around the mounting screw holes. This are Dissimilar metals which are causing Galvanic Corrosion to occur, not Taylor Made, the manufacturer of the windows. You could think of the two dissimilar metals making a battery and the electrons moving back and forth between them as is the cause of the corrosion and you would be right. My boat came with the snaps installed and the canvas cut and attached to the window frame. Now I wish the canvas was oversized and attached to the fiberglass. I've contacted Taylor Marines Metal Plant, and found their quality control guy, Mike Harkey @ 219-347-1368 he was able to get me some matching paint. This will clean up the blistering and make it pretty again. mharkey@taylormarine.com The problem however will not go away. I've called US marine and left messages and received no return call. I've spoken to my canvas man and he understands the problem well but has not heard of any answer to it.

Refrigerator and Ice Maker

Both of these units need to have their coils cleaned by vacuuming them yearly. The ice maker is easy. Just remove (1) screw from the front plastic cover, and vacuums the lint away from the coil. The refrigerator is another story. The door must be removed and it unscrewed form the cabinet and pulled out. On this subject Dick writes to us, Our refrigerator went out after only two years of service. The service man claims it was due to inadequate circulation behind the unit. We were lucky and had purchased the extra two years of warranty for $25.00. The new unit came with a fan kit (which can be ordered separately). And we increased the venting behind the unit before putting the unit back. DICK Z, 4600 SCB owner ladyz@utm.net

Refrigerator: Not having an air vent on the top of the refrigerator bothered me. But, I put it out of my mind, we'll maybe just tucked it away. Before starting out this season I removed the refrigerator and cleaned the coils heat transfer coils behind it. A refrigeration guy recommended that I do this yearly, well it took me three years to do it and I can report to you that mine was so clean I just put it back. But it still bothered me. So, I drilled (4) 1" holes in the top of the cabinet so I could have some air transferring by convection. What spurred me on was that my Ice Cream Sandwiches were mushy. I am here to report the results, no perceptible difference with the Ice Cream, except I feel better that I did it and can feel some air movement through the holes. PS: Norcold the refrigerator manufacturer recommends ventilation on the top of the cabinet. billegates@aol.com 8/01

Norcold, door seal replacement: We've recently done ours, 5/03. They are cheep about $40. each, and they just pull out and push in. No screws to remove! Jc

My Norcold quit working, 2 months after the warranty expired as the compressor burned out. Norcold said the Maxum is required to ventilate the enclosure in which the Norcold sits which is very effectively sealed by the refrigerator flanges and door assembly. US Marine could give a hoot. Norcold came to my rescue with a new compressor which has an integral cooling fan installed as they have had many of these failures. They supplied the parts free and I had them installed by their local agent. I put in a 6x8 home AC/heating duct louvre in the panel on top on the refrigerator and it more or less matched the top. When the refrigerator runs, you can feel the heated air rising through this vent.

A word to the wise. It is unlikely you can pull the refrigerator out of the enclosure without removing the door and all screws around the face of the units as they are long enough to penetrate into the enclosure frame. Also, when pull the unit out, as it is a VERY snug fit, be careful not to catch the vinyl wall covering to your left as it is very close. The mechanic who did our job nicked up the wall and I am still trying to get it fixed. 8/01

I really enjoy the website. It is very helpful.
Ed White esjwhite@uswest.net

My Norcold Refrigerator failed in July 1999. The major problem was that the MAXUM 4100 hatch opening is smaller than the refrigerator. I had to disassemble the entire port side of the cockpit to remove the sliding hatch door to get the refrigerator out. The new refrigerator came with a fan on the heat sink and very different instructions about venting compared to the original refrigerator. To MAXUM's credit, there was a vent built into the boat so both the "old" and the "new" refrigerator venting requirements were met. I would be very careful with venting of the refrigerator. They are expensive to buy and impossible to economically repair. You may use any of this in the newsletter. 8/01
Doug Kendrick Raleigh, NC DKendric@aol.com

Frost building up in my refrigerator freezer. I am having a more pressing issue with a very large amount of frost building up in my refrigerator freezer. I have check all the seals on the doors and they appear to be sealing just fine. In just a few days it will build a large amount of frost in the freezer and the metal plate between the freezer and refrigerator is always wet and has started to rust quite. Have you heard of anyone else having this problem?
When your door closes it does not seal properly.

I had the same problem; we had to shim the outer face door with washers to allow the inner real door to seal. Piece a cake job, give it a couple of hours time and you will be all set, as for the rust, catch it quick with sand paper, mask the area and spray it black. James.
It won't be long now until we are doing the spring clean up and 1st waxing of the season.
Bob Bowers

IceMaker: A whole different story, the coil in front must be cleaned every 6 months, it's only one screw to get to it, use the vacuums horsehair brush gently, piece of cake.

Vacuum

Maxum's built in Vacuum is made by, Wall Vac, of Grand Rapids, MI. Model # 540, Bag#54062, Ph# 616-241-6717, Fax# 616-241-1771, $11. per 5 pcs. As of 11/2000

Mechanical's:

Main Engines & Generator

I've left most Maintenance information in the Engine section, it just seemed right.

Cummins Diesels the 330, 370 and 450 all use three engine zincs, my bottom heat exchanger zinc was worn down to nothing in six months. This is NORMAL. Check your zincs, and replace them as necessary. NEVER use teflon tape to put in the zincs, to work properly the threads must be in contact to the case. Don't throw away the old used up zinc cap, you can insert a new zinc-Pencil and use it again, much cheaper than new, and reuse it again and again. Part numbers anyone? West Marine Part# 194282 for the whole assembly, cap and pencil zinc, $6.26 list.

Westerbeke Diesel Generator Set also has a Zinc and it gets eaten up quickly, the maintenance sticker says check it every month.

Rudder shafts and rudder tie bar: This weekend I brought down some 220 grit emery cloth and sent my 15 year old son down there to polish them up, then wipe them down and seal them with corrosion block. They we pitting something awful. Take a look at the stainless when you check your rudders ground bonding.

Vented Loops.

Most of our boats have two vented loops, one in the waste line and one in the generator line.

The Concept: In boats, liquids are generally pumped from one location to another location at a higher or lower level. When the pump stops there will likely be a pressure difference from one side of the system to the other, and natural siphoning (similar to the action of an aquarium pump and filter system) will, cause the liquid in the system to equalize its level and pressure.

To prevent siphoning utilize a "Vented Loop" at the highest point in the system over which the liquid is pumped. Air is introduced by the Vented Loop allowing the pressure and level of the liquid in the system to equalize without unwanted "backflow."

With a Vented Loop, when the pump stops running, the liquid on each side of the Vented Loop stays where it is. Without a Vented Loop system level would try to equalize (the ocean would try to flow into your boat). You can find out about their Operation and Maintenance here in a few minutes time. The above information is made available from Groco. http://www.groco.net/parts/data/546.pdf

Water Pump

Fuel

I've left most Maintenance information in the Fuel section, it also seemed right.

I've started using Racor's "Diesel Fuel Conditioner +" part # ADT1201, one gallon treats 2560 gallons of fuel, one ounce to 20 gallons. So a little goes a long way. This is a multi function fuel additive, it increases the cetane rating of the Diesel fuel by 3 numbers, which enhances performance by increasing power, providing faster starts, and reduces exhaust emissions, friction is also significantly reduced and it cleans the injectors and dissolves gum and varnish as well. PS, it stabilizes the fuel for prolonged storage as well. Sounds like magic for $35.00 a gallon. I'm using it. 2/00

Oil - OIL QUESTION from Ward & Juanita (OH)
HIYA, its Ward... hey, you think you can contact your Maxum connection and ask what they think about running synthetic oil in there 305-350 and diesel motors?
Thanks, Ward
=====
Ward, I was a BIG synthetic oil man. When I ran my business, I did oil & filter changes at 2500, 5,000, 7500 with standard multi weight oil, usually 15 - 40 wt. At that time usually a (SE) rating
After that I figured the engine had a chance to BREAK in and then I changed to Mobil One, I believe an API (SF) rating at that time.

Then I would change oil and filter at 25,000 miles. We always ran cars to over 100,000 miles, sometimes in under a year, unless we wrecked them. We did well over a million miles of driving like this. Never at engine problem. Consumer reports did a study using taxis in New York, they changed oil and filter at 7,500 miles using both standard oil and synthetic oil. No appreciable difference between the oil, and no adverse wear on the engines. With that said I no longer use synthetic oil in my cars. Shocked? No need to be, I use standard oils with an API (SJ) rating, and change them every 10,000 miles or yearly which ever comes first. Oils have come a long way, (SJ) oil has a tremendous amount of additives. If you put in an oil without additives you would not get over 1000 miles before it broke down, became unusable, and you caused noticeable engine wear. I buy Castrol RX Super 15 - 40 by the case. It is rated CG-4 and approved by Cummins, and it is rated CF/SJ so I can use it in my cars too. When I change oil in the boat, I buy two five gallon buckets of Shell Rotella T, and a case of Castrol RX Super quarts. You have to change oil yearly to get the acid that accumulates naturally in the oil out of the engine before it causes damage. Synthetic oil fifteen years ago, well before the API (SJ) rating was great for us, but today for boating it's money for nothing. I looked up Mobil's tri blend synthetic on the internet, and their data sheet has no API rating, although it stated that it would meet or exceed the SJ, SH or CF API ratings. The Data Sheet does not say it is approved by Cummins nor does it say it is approved for CG-4 service. James

More From Cummins: Oil filter - The Oil filter in the 450C Cummins Diesel incorporates a full flow and a fine filtration section. You can check the date of manufacture of the engine to determine which of two part numbers you need for your engines. The LF3000 is for engines produced before November 1999. The LF9009 is for engines produced thereafter. The LF9009 will work in all applications and does a better job at cleaning as a higher percentage of oil goes through the bypass section, but it is more expensive.

Filters: I found the Racor guys at IBEX, I wanted to talk about water in my diesel fuel getting into my Racor filter. I specifically wanted to know, since the water had reached the filter element and I had since drained the water, does the diesel displace the water from the element? Or did the water wick into the element and ruin that portion of the filter? The answer is, the Racor element is made of an "aquablock" cellulose and it is not permeable to water. The water is displaced. This is on Racor's; other filters can be different.
As an owner you should have the Racor catalogue on Marine Filtration. Brochure # 7501. You can call 800-344-3286 and request one.

Seacocks

Yearly when the boat is hauled operate ALL of the seacocks and spray them with WD 40 or the like. Spraying them from underneath while someone operates the seacock is best, but not always possible. Remember you may need to shut one down someday and you really want it to operate and not to break off in your hand.

Electrical:

Switches and Breakers

Operating in a salt water environment plays havoc with your interior wall switched, those "Ivory Rocker Switches". I was told to and I didn't pay enough attention at the time to "spray them". I was up to my A-- in projects and that did not make the list. Well I was wrong Joe L, I listened and now I am passing along your information. On your next trip to the Marine Store buy a can of "Corrosion Block" sold in a spray can, 4oz or 12oz take your choice. Remove the face plates on your rocker switches and pull just slightly 1/16" the rocker away from the seat, it's spring loaded. You are looking to insert the spray wand 1/8" to 1/4" behind the rocker. Spray the Corrosion Block into the back of the switch, you will get a feel for what's enough after a few switches, wipe the drips and toggle the switch a few time to make sure all of the parts inside get the treatment. It's pretty quick to go through the whole boat. My switches now work all the time. We've used this on the engine room on the exposed metal surfaces also. I sent the kids hunting exposed metal parts like the shift linkage, exposed nuts, and the shaft. Anything that was prone to oxidizing or rusting was sprayed. For this job the earlier it's done in your boats life the better, But just doing it when ever is very important.

Batteries

Battery Care and Maintenance. I bought a battery filler from Pep Boys to aid in this job it's a great investment by the way, it gives perfect fills and prevents contamination from the tops of the batteries from getting into the cells and it keeps the acid away from you. Use distilled water or mineral free spring water. A hydrometer for checking the specific gravity of each cell should also be a must, I found a dead cell in one of my batteries my first time out. A good indication of a dead cell was that while all of the other cells took water the dead cell took none. For a good deal more information on your Batteries see the "Electrical Section"

Battery Care and Maintenance. Here's some information from ARCO, a full supplier of new and remanufactured electrical products for the starting and charging of Marine equipment. Excerpts below are from the ARCO Electrical Technical Manual it is 58 pages big, it cost $9.95.

"A good battery can provide four or five years of worry-free service with the right kind of

care. Batteries can die out fast, in less than six months, if they are neglected.

Inside the Battery

1. It is very necessary in order to keep a healthy battery, that the charge rate be maintained within the recommended boundaries.

2. If neglected, the electrolyte level becomes very low, and the battery starts to lose power, since part of each plate is above the water line.

a. This keeps the rest of plate overworked.

b. Tops of the plates start to dry out and harden. Once this happens, the plates will lose most of their ability to accept a charge and produce electricity.

3. Lead acid batteries generally require adding water about twice a year. (With the standard Maxum Bulk Charger, every 2 to 3 months if the charger is left on)

4. Electrolyte level should be maintained about a quarter inch above the tops of the battery plates.

Outside the Battery

1. The outside of the battery is just as important as the inside. For example, dirt or acid salts can build up on top of the battery. A conductive layer is formed causing a constant discharge drain on the cells.

2. A baking soda bath with water and dish detergent, 3 times per year, helps keep outside

battery losses at a minimum. Never allow this mixture to enter the battery. This mixture will

neutralize acid and cause dead cells.

3. Corrosion of the cable terminals is a major cause of battery problems. (Spraying Corrosion Block here can help)

a. Acid corrosion can greatly destroy the cable and result in loss of current to the starter.

4. Check all terminals to see that they are absolutely clean and tight. Check for broken

wires at battery cable connections.

5. Proper care of cables and terminals is as important as maintaining the battery.

6. Never store a battery for more than 30 days without recharging, or store a battery for

any length of time in a discharged state. Sulfation starts when a battery becomes discharged.

When sulfation happens, lead sulfate is formed from the self-discharge of the plates or the plates standing in a discharged state for a long period of time. Hard, bulky, crystal-like substances are created on the plates. ( Our standard Maxum bulk chargers can not remove the major portion of the sulfatication. You must have a charger with a EQ Equalize Button, when you Equalize the battery you in essence over charge it to break down the sulfides on the plates, thus giving the battery more life and the ability to hold a bigger charge. See the Electrical section for a more information)

Batteries that are in a discharged state for too long and are not being used, will lose the balance of their charge. It is not recommended that a battery go for more than 30 days without getting a charging current. What also happens, is that the pores of the active materials get clogged from the large bulky crystals of sulfate. The active material gets pushed out of the grids, causing them to buckle. If too much internal expansion happens from a sulfated battery, the case will become bulged or cracked.

**WARNING** Batteries give off hydrogen gas constantly. Hydrogen gas is highly explosive. Always wear safety glasses or goggles and use caution when working with batteries.

Battery Testing

Step 1: Open Circuit Voltage Test

Before you can properly test any battery it must be fully charged. You can verify the

state of charge two ways: (Doing Both is Recommended)

The simplest test is done with a digital multimeter.

The other test involves the use of a hydrometer.

Using the digital multimeter to verify the state of charge:

A fully charged 12 volt battery will read at least 12.6 volts (2.1 volts per cell) on the

multimeter when connected as shown below.

Open Circuit Volts?Percent

11. 7 volts or less?0%

12.2???50%

12.4???75%

12.6 or more??100%

Digital multimeter will read 12.6 volts on a fully charged 12 volt battery.

Connect the digital multimeter to the battery terminals. If your reading is 12.4 or below

You must recharge the battery before testing.

Using a hydrometer to verify the state of charge:

When testing batteries with removable filler caps, the hydrometer can be a very useful tool.

Each cell of the battery can be individually tested for state of charge. A reading of

1.250 is usually considered good. (See hydrometer below.) If a cell is found with specific gravity below 1.150 the battery is considered dead.

When one or more of the cells produces a reading that is .050 or more below that of the

others, it's a pretty good indication that the low cells are shorted.

If all the cells read below 1.250 then the battery must be recharged before testing.

State of Charge - ?Standard Specific Gravity

100% charged?- ?1.270

75% charged - ?1.225

50% charged - ?1.190

25% charged - ?1.155

Discharged - ??1.120

Thank You ARCO STARTING & CHARGING SPECIALISTS * 3921 Navy Blvd. Pensacola, FL 32507-1296 for the above information.

ARCO has the largest Marine Electric inventory Anywhere, and it says so on their building in Pensacola Fl, 904-455-5476 1-800-722-2720, www.arcomarine.com

Wiring

When you add an electrical item to the boat, go out of your way to use tinned copper wire. This goes a long way in preventing the copper from oxidizing and giving you intermittent electrical connections. Sealing the connection with an anti corrosive and shrink wrap is a great idea if you can. Spraying corrosion block on exposed wires is also a GREAT help.

To receive information from the Maxum Sports Yacht Owners Group by internet,
send your name, hull #, and tip, if you have one to James, @BilleGates@aol.com