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Smaller Maxums
2100 SC Site
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Welcome to the 2100 SC Photo site:
Master Mariner: Francis Lubinsky's photos follow:
If you have another model Maxum and have photos to share please
E-mail us and we will add them to another section dedictated to your model.
This little Ankle-debuster will take very little time to construct,
and it makes getting in and out of the cabin much easier.
I made a template out of cardboard and used a couple of long stainless steel screws counter-sunk to hole it together. I recommend that it be made slightly too big, then sand it down until it fits tightly. You can see in the picture above where mine rubs. Installed it looks like this:
and with the door closed, it provides an area for my younger son to stand.
Improvement number two will be the rear seats in the upper position.
Master Mariner: Francis Lubinsky Franco2fly@aol.com
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Maxum 2100SC second submission.
Attached is a word document with a couple shots to help explain a deficiency that nearly broke my neck. I often take my boat out solo. And this means I need to launch the boat, then park the trailer/truck and quickly get back to the boat now tied at the dock. When doing this, most often I run down the dock, truck keys in hand and just hop in, usually across the transom. This was a recipe for disaster. The first time the rear seat collapsed on me it put a huge tear in the vinyl which Maxum boats replaced at the end of the season. They actually replaced the entire port and starboard gunwale trim as well as the fold out table just so the vinyl would match. Unfortunately, they put back what was there originally and I knew something had to be done to brace the assembly. If you read through the comments I think you will understand what was happening.
Hopefully the previous little build modification was not too taxing because this second Design Flaw Cure will take a little more effort. It pertains to the two elongated plastic ovals that support the rear seat cushions.
In the 2004 release of our model this piece of plastic is glued in place and vinyl to plastic doesn't glue very well. As you can see in the picture, I have drilled two holes and inserted a long screw with a sizeable washer on the outside and on the back side is a piece of _ inch wood that is 2” x 14” and bolted in place. Tighten the assembly until the blue vinyl starts to compress. Unfortunately, this is just the beginning process. In the picture above you can see there are three pieces of marine plywood covered in vinyl the topmost (white) then the middle (Blue) and a bottom piece (white again) are all screwed together with just 4 stainless steel screws. I took a picture from the door located just ahead of the battery looking forward. You can see where I have mounted the rear speakers as well as the rear stainless screw and my temporary lash up which is a tie-wrap and some muffler hanger when the screws started to pull out. The second stainless steel screw is just visible and appears in the blue vinyl between the bolt head and the speaker. You can also see a second tie-wrap, and more importantly a “T” that I will explain later.
First, you will need to very carefully drill and add four to six screws along the bottom of the blue vinyl and into the white outer panel.
I used a right angle drill and put some tape on the bit so that it would just barely penetrate the white outer layer. When adding these screws be sure to press from the outside and make certain that you do not exceed the depth of the outer plywood or you will puncture the vinyl. BE CAREFUL. Drill at a downward angle for the bottom piece and an upward one for the top.
OK so now some of you I am sure are asking “Why would I go through all this effort?” . The answer is born out of necessity. When the tide is out entry into the boat from the stern becomes quite a long step if the cushions are in the lower position, and stepping down to the swim platform is not much of an alternative. The second time I stepped across into the boat using the cushions in the upper position they fell out. Initially, I thought it was the poor glue joint. But on subsequent investigation I found that the entire seat would shift towards the opposite side since the gunwale on the opposite side would just bend out towards the hull.
If you look at this picture you can imagine this transfer across the boat:
I would step from the dock placing my foot just above the blur. The starboard cushion would apply pressure across the middle and press the port cushion which would then bend the port gunwale outwards and the whole thing would collapse tumbling me into the cockpit. That “T” that you see in the second picture stopped this and creates a solid back bench now! I did not give dimensions because this is going to be a cut it try it process until you get it nice and tight. This season it worked well just being glued in place, but I plan on putting a screw into the “T” for added insurance.
Next month I will tell all my tales of woe concerning the use of the Accessory switches as well as some tips on installation of Electronics on our curved dashboard. I will use my Lowrance set up:
As seen in this photo, and go into the Fuse block you have versus what appears in the manual.
The switch on the extreme right, labeled “A” is an accessory switch, in case you were wondering.
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Trim Tabs:
What I stated on the full down side is that "This is actually too much down as very little is required to make a big difference." I also stated that the tabs were installed according to Lenco's directions and measurements, but every boat is different. I will have to install a spacer in between the hinge and transom to move the tab slightly back thereby pulling them up a bit more.
I have about 1/4 inch up above the bottom of the hull if you measure straight back with a carpenters 3 foot long level. At plane and with the tabs fully retracted, the tabs are still in the water and this reduces your turning radius.(Only through lots of experimentation can I tell where optimum exists and I'm nowhere near that point) Another thing to bear in mind is that Lenco's employ a piano type hinge. When underway and with the tabs slightly deployed water squishes through the hinge. An inexpensive fix is to put a piece of 3" wide metal tape available at most auto stores across the hinge point. Do this before you screw the plate to the transom. This seals the gaps and is invisible.
Happy to entertain any questions about the installation e-mail address Franco2fly@AOL.com ...
KKKKFL
