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Maxum Owners Forum
Tachometer operation and adjustment:
Electronic tachometers work by counting pulses generated by the ignition system, alternator, tach signal
generator, or magnetic pickup sender. The tach is hooked up to +12VDC, Ground, and one of the signal sources
listed above. By selecting the right tach and setting the switch on the back to the correct position, you let the
tachometer know how many pulses are sent per each engine revolution. From this information, the tach displays
the correct engine speed. See Appendix I for tachometer dimensions. Instrument part numbers are located on a
label attached to the outside of the case (i.e. TC0000A).
Application
4 cycle engines: The tach signal terminal is connected to the negative terminal on the ignition coil or to a
transistorized tach driver circuit connected to the ignition system. This circuit will have a wire (usually gray) for
connection to the tach. The correct tachometer will have a white label on the side indicating which switch
position is for each engine type. This label will include 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines for positions 1, 2, and 3.
2 cycle engines: The tach signal terminal is usually connected to the unrectified AC output of the
alternator/lighting coil. Sometimes it is hooked directly to the stator output wire (usually yellow) other times a
gray tach output lead is provided. The correct tach for this application will have a white label on the side with
switch positions for 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, or 20 pole alternators. The number of poles on the alternator can be
determined by checking the Faria® Outboard Tachometer Application table. (See Appendix II)
Diesel engines: The tachometer signal terminal is hooked up to 1 of 3 things: a) the alternator, b) a tach
signal generator that is spun by the mechanical take-off, or c) a magnetic pickup sensor which counts gear teeth.
a) The alternator tach, which is also called a variable ratio tach, is hooked up to the AC output terminal on
the alternator. This terminal can be marked in a variety of different ways: AC, AUX., S, R, TACH, or
nothing at all. Once installed, the tach is then calibrated to that specific engine by using a shop tach or a
known “no load” governor speed. The white label on this tach gives the formula: [Crankshaft pulley
dia./alternator pulley dia. x No. of Alt. Poles = N]. “N” is used to determine the correct switch setting.
Another adjustment on the back allows for fine tuning.
b) The Switching Diesel Tach is hooked up to a tach signal generator which is spun by the engines’
mechanical take-off. One of the signal generator’s wires is grounded to the engine and the other is connected
to the tach’s signal terminal. The white label on this tach is marked: W:1, 1:1, 1.5:1, 2:1, which
corresponds to the different mechanical take-off ratios.
c) The Mag Pickup Tach hooks up to a magnetic pickup sensor which counts gear teeth. Here neither of the
wires is grounded to the block. They are both routed up to the tachometer as a twisted pair. One hooks to the
signal terminal and the other to the ground terminal on back of the tach. The switch is set to the approximate
number of teeth that the sensor sees on each engine revolution. Another adjustment on the back allows fine
tuning to the exact number of teeth. The label is marked in ranges generally from 80 to 200 gear teeth.
Calibration
Set up a calibrated “shop tach” or “strobe tach” to monitor the engine’s true RPM. Start the engine and
(after an appropriate warm-up period and with the shift in neutral) increase it’s speed to the boat’s normal
cruising RPM read on the shop tach. Set the coarse adjustment switch to the proper position described on it’s
label. Remove the stop-plug or paper label corner (at the 8-o’clock position on the rear of the case for most) and
insert a 5/16” Allen wrench into the “fine adjustment” trimpot, rotating it CW or CCW as necessary to indicate
the true RPM.
Troubleshooting
Symptom recognition is the first step in effective instrumentation troubleshooting. Tachometers usually
exhibit the following symptoms: a) dead, b) pegged, c) erratic, d) reading high, e) reading low, and f)
sticky. More thorough tests of all tach’s (except magnetic pick-up) can be conducted using the Faria?
Instrumentation Tester.
Symptom:
A. Dead - This is usually caused by: a) No power applied, b) No signal supplied, or c) Tach damaged by
electrical transients caused by disconnecting the battery with the engine running.
1. Check to see if power is applied to tach by switching the instrument power supply switch on and off. As
power is applied, the pointer should jump slightly. If it does not, check to see that the wires are installed on
the correct terminals and that 12 volts are actually applied to the terminals themselves.
2. If tach indicates that power is applied, check for the presence of a signal on the signal terminal. Measure
the signal between the signal and ground terminals. This should read in excess of 2 volts DC.
3. If power and signal are present, then it is possible that the tach has been damaged by electrical transients.
See the enclosed technical bulletin for details.
B. Pegged - This condition occurs on tach’s with internal mechanical pointer stops. It is caused by removing
power from the tach while it is running in excess of mid-scale RPM’s or by the switch on back of the tach being
in between positions. When power is re-applied, the tach pointer attempts to go clockwise to zero but cannot
because the internal stop is in the way. Read “Marine Instrumentation Facts” for details on how to correct this
condition.
C. Erratic - This symptom is caused 99% of the time by an intermittent connection between the wire and the ring
or spade connector. Often the wire’s insulation is pushed into the crimp area and crimped. The center conductor
casually touches the connector allowing the tach to work most of the time but causing a nightmare for the
technician. Electrical noise also can cause erratic readings. See “Reading High” for further information.
D. Reading High - This is usually caused by the switch on the back of the tach being in the wrong position. If
the number of cylinders or alternator poles selected by the switch is too low, the tach will read high. If a variable
alternator or mag pick-up tach is being used, then further calibration may be necessary, as this calibration is done
by the end user. See ‘Calibration’. Excessive electrical noise may also cause the tach to read high. These noise
spikes are counted by the tach as engine RPM’s. The wire affected by the noise can be identified by connecting
one wire at a time to the tachometer directly from the battery or the signal source on the engine.
E. Reading Low - If the number of cylinders or alternator poles selected by the switch is too high, then the tach
will read low. If a variable ratio or mag pick-up tachometer is being used, further calibration by the end user may
be necessary. See ‘Calibration’.
F. Sticky - If the tach appears to “stick” during operation, slightly loosen nuts holding backclamp and check
operation. If tach now operates properly and is not loose in panel, tach now should provide suitable service. If
tach continues to stick during operation -- replace tach.
This is the back of your Tach. Break the seal in the "Green" area and use a plastic 5/64 hex key to adjust.
You can find this tool in Radio Shack, or use a metal hex key with care.
Your Tachometers have a Transferable Limited Lifetime Warranty
During the first 36 months from date of original retail purchase (12 months on PWC, fog resistant gauges, Fuel Managers, Depth Sounders, Commander-Speedo, Commander-Tach, Pilot I and Pilot II), any instruments that fail due to defects in materials or workmanship will be repaired or replaced at Faria Marine Instruments option at no charge. The Warranty is further extended indefinitely beyond the initial warranty period by enclosing the nominal fee as listed below when submitting a warranty claim.
To submit a Warranty Claim, call Faria Customer Service at 1-800-473-2742 weekdays 8:30 am until 5:00 pm Eastern Time. One of our Marine Applications Specialists will review the problem with you in detail. If no solution is found, you will be given an authorization number to return the instrument, postage prepaid and packaged to prevent damage while in transit, along with your name, address, daytime telephone number, sales receipt, and a brief description of the problem, to:
Faria Marine Instruments
WARRANTY SERVICE, P.O. Box 983,
Uncasville, CT 06382-0983.
It will be promptly returned to you postage prepaid (average turnaround, 5 working days).
Instrument styles which are no longer manufactured, may be replaced with a similar instrument of equal or greater value. For Warranty Service beyond the initial 36 month warranty period, be certain to include your check or money order as follows: Tachometer $ 26.00* each
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Maxum Owners Forum
4100 SCR, Cummins 330, and I have four problems:
In a message dated 9/9/03 4:02:33 PM, zrman1@msn.com writes:
James, I have A 1997 4100 SCR Cummins 330 I have four problems;
1. I need address for being a member and how much.
2. My rear a/c pan is over flowing the water onto the stringers I added 6" of 5/8 hose to it thinking it had a kink in it did not work, and the hose runs to the shower sump pump.
3. water holding tank gauge on dash does not work ?
4. port engine oil pressure meter does not work, I replaced oil sending unit it did not fix the problem.
Thank You, John Bouma
John, this is a job for , Ta-ta-da taaaah. Our 4100 SCR Master Mariner, Bob Vlick
4100 SCR - Bob Vlick, owns " Swan Song " a 1999 4100 SCR out of Newport Beach, CA his boat has 330 HP Cummins Diesels. Bob's boated from Oregon to Mexico and in the Mid 50's has been a USCG Boatswains Mate stationed aboard a 83 foot Search & Rescue boat out of Terminal Island, CA, rvlick@earthlink.net
I'll take a crack at a few of your questions, leaving the AC question to Bob.
Water holding tank gauge, there is usually a small glass fuse behind the gauge, check it.
The gauge will not operate unless the water pump switch is on.
Oil pressure switch, Question; does the alarm stay on when the engine starts?
If it comes on then goes off the sender is usually good. And the gauge is bad.
If it stays on the sender is bad.
Gauges are warranteed for life by.
Thomas G Faria Corporation,
Instrument and gauges
http://www.faria-instruments.com/
Regards, Capt. James Clausen, MV Summer School
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Maxum Owners Forum
Insurance:
By: Captain James Clausen
What can you tell me about your boat's insurance policy without peeking at it?
Physical Damage Insurance: Describes the Yacht with a specified dollar value placed on hull damage, and also describes a deductible from that value. Our policy says we have $300,000.00 on our boats hull, with 2% deductible, $6,000.00.
But which type of coverage do you have? Is it a "replacement value policy", that will pay you the previously declared and agreed replacement hull value of $300,000.00. Or is it an "agreed value policy" (ACV) which will pay you the average value of a similar boat, Perhaps only $255,000.00 . If it’s an agreed value policy remember, you must be "made whole" after the loss. Beware, there are many ways to value a boat after a substantial loss, and you may have to fight to get what you consider a fair settlement. A replacement value policy, where you both agree to a previously declared value, before a loss, is usually much better.
Liability: Many policies are sold with $100,000.00 liability, the brokers I've spoken to agree that this is just not enough. It could cost from $3. to $25. to get to up to the preferred $300,000.00 coverage. When asked about Liability coverage, many owners and agents say a million dollars coverage is needed. It was suggested that an umbrella policy from the agent who provides your homeowners is the preferred way to go for coverage in the Million Dollar range and above. It cost less and covers more. A boater I’ve spoken to was under the impression that his boat could be covered under a umbrella policy alone, this is not the case, you must have a boat policy. Does your policy cover wreck removal? If it doesn’t, and your boat sinks, you are liable to remove it. And if you policy limits the wreck removal cost to $5,000.00 or 5% of the hull coverage and your boat sinks in a fresh water drinking reservoir of 200’ depth, you will be the one paying the additional cost of removal. What about fuel spill liability, does your policy cover it? Environmental cleanup costs have become sky high, and in some cases clean up can continue for years. Can everyone say Exxon Valdez. Will the insurance pay for the salvage cost of your boat if lost? Do these salvage costs deduct from the liability coverage amount, or are they in addition to it? Our policy will pay “IN ADDITION TO THE AGREED HULL VALUE”, very important words, “the necessary salvage cost up to, but not to exceed the agreed hull value.”
Medical Payments: Medical payments are sometimes limited to $1,000.00, more typically $5,000.00 per incident. Payments in excess of this are usually covered under your homeowner's policy or umbrella policy. As a point of information, 95% of all medical claims are under $5,000.00. The cost to increase your Medical Payments from $1,000.00 to $5,000.00 is usually $2.00 to $15.00. But you have to ask for it.
Uninsured boater: What does your policy say as to your coverage and your rights? Some policy's mimic the value of the liability coverage, others have their own declared limits. You should have at least $250,000.00 in uninsured boater coverage. We have opted for $500,000.00
Navigation Limits, Home Port: Marine Insurance policy’s have specific navigation limits in which you can operate the vessel. Ours is stated as, “Eastport Maine, to Cedar Key Florida including the Bahamas.” To which we have expanded to include Canada and Inland Rivers, by endorsement, at a modest additional premium. Your boat permanent location is a determining factor in your premium, (cost).
Policy Extras: Read your policy, we found we have $500.00 to cover towing, fuel drop, or mechanical repairs, and it included at no additional cost to us, we pay up front for the service and the insurance company pays us back. And we have a $500.00 per incident "Named Storm" expense included. Which states that the insurance company will pay to haul us out, and/or have our canvas removed and/or have extra lines installed up to $500.00 total, to protect our boat from storm damage. None of the above is subject to a deductible. Our policy also raises our deductible from 2% to 3% for any damage from a named storm or tropical depression, not great, but acceptable to us.
For an extra $25.00 I can add a Club Program, which raises my towing to $1,000.00 per incident and adds $150.00 for on road assistance for my boat trailer and gives discounts at numerous marinas. Sound familiar?
Survey: Regarding Insurance, how old does your boat have to be to require a survey for the insurance company? The answer is normally 10 years or older. Insurance and appraisal surveys cost about 8 to 10 dollars a foot, + cost to haul. VS a condition and value survey, which is typically 12 to 15 dollars a foot. A mechanical survey is also available but insurers generally do not require it.
Getting Quotes: Get your auto and homeowner agent to offer quotes on your boat insurance, there may be a discount on multiple interlocking policy’s. Look at Allstate, State Farm, Progressive, NBOA, GEICO, and who ever else is recommended to you. BUT beware, boat insurance is a small world, if you ask you local agent to quote you, they may go out to a company like Royal. And NBOA may go out to Royal also, Royal, like many insurers usually will not bid the second request for the same boat. You might want to make copy’s your present policy, be sure to blank out the premium and your present insurance company’s name and policy number, then pass them out at your next big boat show and ask for quotes.
Policy Discounts: If you're insured with BoatUS and take their online boating course, you will receive a 10% discount on your premium, It's a 30 minute online deal, and well worth your time! Other insurers will discount their policy if you have taken the USPS, United States Power Squadrons boaters safety course. Having a US Coast Guard Captains License also rates a discount with many insurers. And the biggest discount is to be a proven safe boater, with multiple years and no claims, yes your claims history is checked.
Lay Up: If your policy is for 12 months of operation and you "Lay Up" unexpectedly, typically for a 6 month period, you can receive a rebate. Seasonal 6 month policies are also available at a reduced cost and are typically used up north.
Miscellaneous: Can a wooden boat be insured; sure but there are fewer and fewer companies who will do it. Can a Grey market boat be insured in the US, sure but you need to call quite a few companies to find one who will, and the survey will be intense and you may be required to update the boat based the surveyors findings. Can a boat older that 25 year old be insured, again sure, many of these boat are antiques in superior condition, but some are dry rotted hulks. A survey will normally be required and the premium will reflect the condition of the vessel and the value of the boat. Boats refused insurance are refused for good reason, would you want them next to you at your dock?
Insuring just before the storm; Once a storm is named, you cannot get insurance for that storm, nor can you increase your coverage for that storms damage.
Equipment Listed: This is the part of your insurance application where you list the number of Bilge Pumps, GPS, Compass, VHF, Etcetera. While it does not effect your premium costs, this is where you should list the serial number on your equipment. Its just smart to do now and here’s the perfect place to record it.
Omissions and Errors: Your agent is a licensed professional, he carries insurance too. He has an Omissions and Errors policy which covers him in case he does something inappropriate. This could be as simple as transcribing the wrong hull number on to you policy. It could be he wrote you with a bad or failing insurance company. It could be the policy it coverage and options were not properly explained to you. The chance of you ever needing to know this or use this is slight, but again, knowledge is power. Ask, educate yourself, don't just listen, read the policy and ask questions. Shop your boat policy, you will be amazed at the different policy's and prices.
In Conclusion: Ask your agent about what you don’t know or understand, if you are still unsure about the answers you receive, send a letter to your agent, and ask for a response in writing. Feel free to ask your question again and include what you though their response was and ask if you understood their answer. Its your money. And its better to ask questions now that to argue later after a loss.
About the author; James has boated in power and sail for over 35 years, he has a USCG Captains license, Private Pilots license, boated extensively in the Bahamas and Caribbean and done the 6300 mile great Loop of America, in 2000-2002. He is a member of American Boat and Yacht Council, Great Lakes Cruising Club, and Maxumowners.org
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Maxum Owners Forum
Master Mariners:
